In the heart of Northern Michigan, amidst its rolling hills and picturesque landscapes, lies a burgeoning wine industry with a history as rich as the flavors it produces. Michigan’s winemaking tradition dates back to the late 18th century, with Monroe serving as the birthplace of the state’s wine culture. French settlers, drawn to the fertile lands along the River Raisin, found an abundance of grapes growing naturally along its banks, leading to the establishment of the region’s first true wine region at Frenchtown.
By the mid-1800s, Monroe County boasted a thriving wine industry, thanks in part to the large plantings of Concord grapes, primarily cultivated for the Welch Grape Juice Company. Four major wineries emerged as key players in Michigan’s wine scene, including La Salle Wine and Champagne Company, Bronte Champagne and Wines Company, Michigan Wineries (now Tabor Hill Winery), and St. Julian Winery. These pioneers laid the groundwork for what would become a flourishing wine industry in the decades to come.
Michigan Sweet and Fruit Wines
Throughout much of the 20th century, Michigan wineries specialized in sweet and fruit wines, catering to local tastes and preferences. State laws incentivized the production of natural wines by imposing lower taxes on Michigan-made wines compared to those from out of state. However, as demand for locally sourced and labeled fine wines grew in the latter half of the century, winemakers began to explore new avenues, experimenting with vinifera varieties and upgrading their production techniques.
In 1971, Tabor Hill Winery in SW Michigan made history as the first Michigan winery dedicated to vinifera wines, signaling a shift towards higher quality offerings. Just three years later, Chateau Grand Traverse opened its doors in Northern Michigan’s Traverse Bay region, further solidifying the region’s reputation as a wine destination.
Michigan’s American Viticultural Areas
Michigan boasts five distinct American Viticultural Areas (AVAs), each with its own unique characteristics: Fennville, Lake Michigan Shore, Leelanau Peninsula, Old Mission Peninsula, and Tip of the Mitt. Situated in close proximity to Lake Michigan, these regions benefit from the moderating influence of the lake, creating favorable microclimates for grape cultivation. In fact, nearly all of Michigan’s wine grapes are grown within a mere 25 miles (40 km) of the lake, thanks to the lake effect.
The northern wine regions, including Leelanau and Old Mission peninsulas, enjoy a 145-day growing season, while their southern counterparts boast a slightly longer 160-day season. The Greater Traverse City area, encompassing both Leelanau and Old Mission, stands out as one of Michigan’s premier wine regions. Here, sandy soils with excellent drainage coupled with a climate shaped by the nearby lake contribute to an extended growing season, surpassing that of many other wine regions in the U.S. Midwest.
Michigan’s Wine Grapes
Remarkably, over half of Michigan’s wine grapes, including a significant portion of the state’s vinifera grapes, thrive in this area, making it a cornerstone of Michigan’s wine industry. As the vines flourish in the sandy soil and temperate climate, the Greater Traverse City area continues to solidify its reputation as a leading wine-producing region in the Midwest.
In the Greater Traverse City area, the unique climate allows for the production of ice wine, a specialty wine requiring an early hard freeze to harvest the fruit while frozen on the vine. Although not possible every year, a handful of wineries produce this coveted style. In 2002, six Michigan wineries set a record by producing over 13,000 half-bottles of ice wine.
Mark Johnson, Winemaker
Mark Johnson (1952-2017), then working at Chateau Grand Traverse and later the head winemaker at Chateau Chantal, pioneered ice wine production in Michigan in 1983. Following German practices, Michigan wineries adhere to strict standards for ice wine production. German law dictates that grapes must be picked only when frozen on the vine, while U.S. law allows for artificial freezing after picking. However, the unpredictable nature of weather makes ice wine production a gamble. Grapes are typically harvested in December after prolonged freezing temperatures, ensuring they freeze completely. However, in warmer years, harvesting may not occur until late January, posing challenges in protecting ripe grapes from birds and wind.
Michigan’s prowess in fruit wine production is equally impressive. With a long history in Europe, especially in regions where grapes struggle to grow, fruit wine enjoys popularity in Michigan. Apple and cherry wines dominate, with Michigan leading in tart cherry production. Many Traverse City vineyards, once cherry orchards, now produce cherry wines, spice cherry wines, and cherry-grape blends. Michigan also stands out in North America for fortified fruit wines and eau-de-vie (fruit brandy) production.
Michigan’s Wine Industry Today
Michigan’s wine industry continues to evolve, with new vintners joining the ranks and innovative techniques being explored. The focus on vinifera varieties remains strong, with ongoing experimentation with hybrid varieties poised to expand grape growing even further, including into the Upper Peninsula.
As the vines continue to flourish and the wines mature, one cannot help but wonder: What new heights will Northern Michigan’s wine industry reach in the years to come?
Discover all the wineries of Northern Michigan at Up North Wineries.
Marisa Fancy along with her husband and four children dreamt of moving “Up North”. They had vacationed for years in northern Michigan and in 1995 they finally made the move.